I was prepared to be disappointed by this place. Anywhere I’ve eaten owned by Eat Restaurant Partners has been overpriced mediocrity drenched in buckets of “local”, “natural”, and “sustainable” marketing puffery. Fat Dragon, Blue Goat, Boulevard Burger and Brew, Foo Dog, etc. It’s not bad food, and I don’t pass over food based on price alone, but there are plenty of better options in their respective price ranges around town.
Now there’s Hot Chick (har har, another cheeky name like…ugh…”Wong Gonzales”): the restaurant group’s take on Nashville-style hot chicken. I adore RVA’s dining scene, but we have a habit of picking up on food trends after everybody else has had a turn, don’t we? I love spicy food, though, and Nashville is too far a drive for a busy dad to try the real deal that is “hot chicken”. My options are limited (but please do check out the fancy chicken biscuit at Saison Market – it’s leaning in the same direction), so today I took my daughter to the new joint for lunch.
It’s good. Like, really dang good.
I got the basic sandwich, with a brutally hot fried chicken breast on a sweet and tender roll. I’m picky, so I excluded the pickles and slaw, but this meant it was just me and the chicken. I can’t speak to authenticity, nor the difference between its progenitors and the gentrification version of hot chicken, but Hot Chick is HOT. At the very least the chicken breast was dipped in some kind of hot oil or sauce, though there may very well have been some heat in the marinade and/or batter as well. But the crucial element here was the flavor—it was spicy but still tasted delicious. The waffle fries on the side were seasoned to perfection and helped mitigate the heat.
This was a $12 sandwich with a side. That’s not cheap for something in this category, but is the quality worth the price? I think so. Hot Chick won’t be a regular lunch stop, but I’ll go back when I get a hot chicken craving in the future.