Town of Charles: Here we go again

Metal Church Street sign stamped into the sidewalk in Charleston, SC

Today the weather was BEAUTIFUL. And it was a walking kind of day. We walked about 5.3 miles, actually. It would have been more but we took advantage of the free and excellent downtown bus service several times. In the morning we left the B&B after pancakes and headed for Waterfront Park. It was almost chilly that early and the wind by the ocean certainly added to the feeling of autumn’s late arrival.

Palmetto fountain in Waterfront Park, Charleston, SC
Modern fountain in Waterfront Park, Charleston, SC

We were simultaneously enjoying the outdoors and killing time until the opening of Robert Lange Studios where we could see a painting by our friend Cassandra Loomis Kim. It was wonderful to see our friend’s work in a group show (her work is “King Grizzly”) away from home, but it was also a really cool gallery in its own right. I’m a particular fan of Nathan Durfee’s work which reminds me a lot of children’s book author/illustrator Dan Santat.

After the gallery we wandered uptown toward the College of Charleston, grabbing an okay lunch at Basic Kitchen before visiting a disappointing triceratops-themed coffee shop. It’s called Tricera Coffee, but it’s really just a sad, slow business with a bunch of triceratops toys in random places around the interior.

My wonderful wife sitting in a banquette at Basic Kitchen
A toy Raphael the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle riding a triceratops toy.

We made up for the disappointment by meandering through Marion Square before grabbing some truly delicious pastries from La Patisserie at Hotel Bennett.

St. Matthew's Lutheran Church in Charleston, SC
A royal chocolate pastry from La Patisserie in Charleston, SC

Here is where we grabbed our first bus to the western end of the old market, after which we walked a short distance to our true caffeine destination: Second State Coffee. This place just straight up delivered. The espresso was delicious, the cappuccino was perfect. I bought a bag of beans to take back to Virginia, it was so good. The barista was terrific and even tipped me off on a different way to try brewing a Chemex (going to look up “double blooming” when I get a chance). Turns out they have a second location now just across the bridge from Charleston, so we’ll likely grab some brew on the way back to NC to get the kids tomorrow.

The afternoon consisted of meandering around a bit more, killing time before our dinner reservation at 5:30 (reminder: we are olds). So we walked by the old Dock Street Theater and the French Huguenot church, hit the market so Valerie could get souvenirs for the kids, and even snagged a little cocktail before din-din. We supped at Poogan’s Smokehouse – part of the same group as Poogan’s Porch where we ate so many years ago. The food was pretty good, but the service left a lot to be desired. The one cocktail I ordered? Truly abysmal.

We didn’t want as early a night as yesterday so we grabbed another bus to head up Meeting Street to Little Palm, quite possibly the coolest bar I’ve visited in a long time. There was a real Miami Beach club vibe in this bar at The Ryder Hotel without feeling kitschy, and the drinks were super inventive. Great staff, great interior, even greater drinks.

Entryway to Little Palm bar in Charleston, SC

We caught one more bus further downtown so we could finish the night with some fantastic frozen treats from Off Track Ice Cream. Bellies full and tiredness setting in to our aging bones, we headed back to the B&B where we’re now recuperating and winding down. We head out after breakfast tomorrow, but it’s been a spectacular return to this old city in The South. There’s a lot of fun to be had and sights to be seen without feeding the Plantation Tourism Complex, and I hope we can make it back sooner than another 10 years.

Town of Charles: Day First

Giant old pink house on Bay Street in Charleston, SC

I don’t have quite the energy of my evenings in Maine to write about this little weekend away, but Valerie and I are in Charleston for the weekend alone as a slightly late celebration of our anniversary. The kids are with my mother-in-law in North Carolina and we’re staying at a B&B (not the house above – that’s a private home for some wealthy NewYorker). This afternoon and evening were chill; walking around The Battery, meandering up Bay Street until we dropped in to an incredible (and incredibly renovated!) favorite from our first visit 10 years ago: The Gin Joint. This place is still the absolute jam. I wish they were open on Sundays so I could go again tomorrow night.

Just a random old house in Charleston, SC with some cool sunlight hitting its facade and dramatic clouds in the sky
Just a random house off Bay Street with some cool light hitting it.

We caught a Lyft all the way to the other side of town for our dinner reservation at Chasing Sage, an impossibly cool vegetable-focused restaurant that did almost everything right. The decor, the menu, the music, the dang bathrooms! This place was cooler than me. The food was great, the cocktails were great, and Valerie and I felt like we were on the verge of 30 again like our first visit, instead of nearly 40 as we are now. Turns out this place is in the super-hip neighborhood of Cannonborough/Elliotborogh which, as you can predict, is a post-gentrified district of Charleston. Now the gentrifiers are complaining about the encroachment of college students, so ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

a cocktail and a prickly pear soda on a table at Chasing Sage restaurant in Charleston, SC

Anyway we have a light itinerary for tomorrow that includes lots of walking. The weather turns sharply autumnal tonight which should make that walking lovely. But most of what I’m looking forward to tomorrow is sleeping in without my kids climbing in bed before 6 AM.

Westward Expansion

Westland Shopping Center cactus sign on West Broad Street in Henrico, VA.

The Westland Shopping Center was built in what used to be the “Far West End” on West Broad Street back in 1963, and boy does that sign place the strip mall marvelously in that decade. I know being way out in the counties was considered the hinterlands at the time, but a saguaro cactus? Hilarious. Anyway, this was shot on Kodak E100 slide film with my Hasselblad 500 C/M.

Maine Day 4 Film Photos

The top of the Portland Head Light (lighthouse) in Maine

And here’s the final post of my film shots from the Maine trip. If you read the proper blog post for that day then you’ll remember it was the Portland day. I don’t have any photos of the incredible bagels or coffee I consumed, but I still managed to snag some goodies along the way.

Tandem Coffee Roasters' cafe in a repurposed service station in Portland, ME.

Tandem was, of course, a highlight of the day because of its thematic resemblance to Richmond’s own Lamplighter (bike themed, first cafe in an old service station, etc.).

Of course, Tandem is all about the two-person bike, not the tall bike. But you get the idea. Really missing that pistachio cake I ate there. Chef’s kiss, man.

After hitting one more coffee stop we drove to the south end of Casco Bay to Fort Williams Park so we could check out the Portland Head Light. I loved this park so much.

Portland Head Light and house on the cliffs at Casco Bay in Portland, ME.

And we headed back to into town for one more coffee stop which we enjoyed in Post Office Park while a busker played the harp.

A busker plays a harp in Post Office Park in Portland, ME.

Everything from this day was shot on a roll of Lomography Color 400. I think I let this film age a bit too much as its saturation and contrast bumped up a bit too high for my taste, but that last photo still managed to retain some natural-is skin tones and dynamic range. Anyway, as I’ve said before – I didn’t got to Maine for the sake of photography, but I’m going to bring a camera with me wherever I travel, and these three days’ worth of photos are exactly why. The memories are truly great, but the images provide that extra reference, texture, and detail to my recollection.

I head to Charleston, SC for an anniversary weekend with my wife this coming Friday and I’m sure I’ll fire off at least a roll or two while I’m down there. We’ll see whether I get anything worth sharing 😀

Maine Day 3 Film Photos

Mount Katahdin with its peak in storm clouds viewed from the Katahdin Woods & Waters picnic area

And here we go with my film photos from the 3rd day in Maine (really my 2nd full day if you recall). These were pretty much all from Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument. Loads of time on gravel roads, stopping occasionally for some gorgeous sites, and high-tailing it out of there once we realized the storm was headed our way 😀

All of these were shot on Kodak Portra 160 using my Hasselblad 500 C/M.

triangular, vertical slate formations in a river bed

This isn’t the most beautiful photograph I took that day, but it was the most fascinating thing I saw – naturally-occurring, triangular slate formations that protruded near-vertically from the river bed.

Hill visible above trees opposite a wetland pond

Unlike Acadia, with which my friend Robert is deeply familiar, I don’t know what all these places are called. Somewhat anonymous beautiful spots, I guess. Whatever their names, it was the most breathtaking scenery of the whole trip.

Denuded trees in a wetland reflecting the clouds
Reflection of denuded trees and clouds in a wetland pond

Maine Day 2 Film Photos

The Bubbles mountain peaks as viewed across Eagle Lake in Acadia National Park, ME.
The Bubbles, as viewed across Eagle Lake in Acadia National Park. Shot on Kodak Portra 160 with my Hasselblad 500 C/M

You can consider this a companion post to my second Maine post. Sure, I included a number of iPhone photographs, but my next few posts are all about the film I shot on my Hasselblad 500 C/M when I was in Maine.

I got a few keepers I was happy with from Acadia, and a few additional fun shots after we left.

Bar Harbor as viewed from the top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, ME.
Bar Harbor as viewed from the top of Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park, ME. Shot on Kodak Portra 160 with my Hasselblad 500 C/M

I didn’t visit Maine to take photographs, of course. But I do take a decent camera with me every time I travel because I’m an enthusiast. And the weather really cooperated each day I was up there.

Cliffs and rock formations near Thunder Hole in Acadia National Park, ME.
Cliffs and rock formations near Thunder Hole in Acadia. Shot on Portra 160 in some really hard light on my Hasselblad 500 C/M
Hot lobster roll and potato chips at Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound near Acadia in ME.

That weather, of course, made for some pretty fine meals outside.

Wood-fired lobster pots at Trenton Bridge Lobster Pound near Acadia, ME.

Honestly, the weather was so exactly my jam (chilly in the morning, perfect low 70s and low humidity in the afternoon) that it was almost as significant a part of my vacation as seeing my friend and the beautiful landscapes of Maine.

Boats in a marina on the Passagassawakeag River in Belfast, ME.
Boats in a marina on the Passagassawakeag River in Belfast, ME. Shot on Portra 160 with my Hasselblad 500 C/M

Seventeen Years Married

Today is my wedding anniversary and, as the title indicates, I’ve been married to Valerie for 17 years. I don’t have anything profound to say this morning, so I’ll share an anecdote. Yesterday while the kids were at school, we went out to lunch and enjoyed great food and beer in some glorious weather. We followed lunch with some relaxing at a cafe sipping coffee and passing time with conversation. It was a real treat to have such calm and unhurried time with my wife to talk, take in a meal, and be comfortably idle together.

We’re taking a weekend trip in two weeks to truly celebrate, but days like yesterday are what reinforce how much I still love my wife and the years we’ve had together.